Longarm Guide
How to Prepare Your Quilt for Longarm Quilting
The full checklist — pressing, trimming, backing size, and how to pack and ship it safely — whether you're dropping off locally or mailing it in.
Give the top a final press
Press out every wrinkle and fold crease — a smooth top loads onto the frame evenly and quilts cleanly. Do this last, right before packing.
Trim stray threads
Check especially where dark seams sit under light fabric — loose dark threads can show through and are much easier to catch now than after quilting.
Stay-stitch the outer edge
A scant 1/8" seam around the entire perimeter keeps outer seams from popping and stops bias edges from stretching while the top is handled and loaded.
Square up the top
Make sure opposite sides measure the same and corners are close to 90°. A noticeably unsquare top is harder to load flat and can end up with visible waviness after quilting.
Remove anything that isn't fabric
Buttons, beads, pins, and other embellishments can damage a longarm needle or get caught in the machine. Remove them before shipping and reattach after quilting if needed.
Prepare backing 4-8" larger on all sides
Most quilters ask for at least 4" of extra backing (and batting) on every side beyond the top's dimensions — it gives the frame clamps something to grip without stitching into your actual quilt top.
Press and mark the backing
Press the backing too, and if it has an up/down orientation (a directional print, a pieced design, words), pin a note or write "TOP" on masking tape at the correct edge.
Do NOT pin or baste the layers together
Send the top, batting, and backing as separate, unbasted pieces (unless your longarmer specifically asks otherwise) — they'll load and tension each layer themselves.
Fill out an intake form
Most longarmers have one on their site — note your chosen quilting style (edge-to-edge pantograph vs. custom), thread color preference, and batting choice (yours or theirs).
Pack and ship with tracking + insurance
Fold neatly, bag the intake form with the quilt, and insure the package for at least the quilt's replacement value. Email your longarmer the tracking number once it ships.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much bigger should quilt backing be for longarm quilting?+
At least 4 inches larger than the quilt top on every side (8 inches total added to both width and height) — some longarmers ask for 6-8 inches on bigger or heavily-quilted tops. Check with your specific quilter, since frame and clamp requirements vary slightly.
Should I pin or baste my quilt before sending it to a longarm quilter?+
No — send the top, batting, and backing unbasted as three separate pieces unless your longarmer specifically asks for something different. They load and tension each layer themselves on the frame.
Do I need to send batting when mailing my quilt for longarm quilting?+
Not usually — most longarm quilters stock their own batting in common types (cotton, 80/20 blend, wool, polyester) and will quilt with your choice from their stock unless you specifically want to supply your own.
How should I ship a quilt top to a longarm quilter?+
Fold it neatly, include your filled-out intake form (bagged separately so it doesn't snag on the fabric), and ship with tracking and insurance for at least the quilt's value. Email or text the tracking number to your longarmer as soon as it ships.
What should I remove from my quilt before longarm quilting?+
Any pins, buttons, beads, appliqué embellishments, or anything that isn't flat fabric — these can damage the longarm needle or catch in the machine. Reattach decorative elements after the quilting is done.